Vintage turquoise in a display case at Shiprock in Santa Fe’s Plaza

Here’s what I’m thinking.  Real travel writers who provide detailed tips on where to go, what to see, and what to eat probably spend time investigating known and unknown spots both prior to and during a trip.  I’m guessing, of course, but real writers mostly talk to locals who tip ’em off to the best of the best and then some — you know, those out-of-the-way places just waiting to be discovered. Kind of like Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives eateries and such. Well, we’re not journalists or freelance writers.  We’re just lucky travelers who found Santa Fe to be more than we ever expected.

To see the art of Santa Fe, you only have to look up! The grand architecture of The Lensic, Santa Fe’s Performing Art Center!

Although we spent only a couple of days in fabulous Santa Fe and moved rapidly from one must-see spot to another, we tried to take in as much as we could on our two-day look-around.  So, when we say we’ve found eight great places, we have.  But it’s by no means the be-all and end-all of What To See in Santa Fe.

Having said that, here are eight of our favorite spots. We think you’ll love ’em, too!

Museums

1. The Georgia O’Keefe Museum.  Distinguishing itself as the only museum dedicated to an internationally known American woman artist, this Place to See showcases Georgia O’Keeffe’s art — colorful, large-scale art: natural forms, cityscapes, and northern New Mexico landscapes.  Don’t miss the video outlining life events that shaped her work as well as the ever-changing exhibit of over 3,000 works.  The museum doesn’t allow photos, so take my word for it:  You really get a feel for the artist and her works from an afternoon’s immersion into her world! (217 Johnson Street; 505.946.1000; okeeffemuseum.org)

These ladies in the O’Keeffe Museum Gift Shop showed us the touris favorites and then invited us to an upcoming tea! Love this place!

2. Museum of International Folk Art. Situated on Museum Hill with three other great venues for Southwestern and Indian art, this international folk art collection is chock full of hand-made creations from around the world.  Check out funky, primitive carvings or vignettes of hundreds of tiny people and creatures housed in glass cases and catalogued for easy viewing and IDing! Allow extra time. You won’t believe this vast collection of stitchery, pottery, masks, dolls, and quirky creations — sure to make you smile! (706 Camino Lejo; 505.476.1200; internationalfolkart.org) Closed Mondays.

Colorful masks from all over the world smiled back at us!

Tiny vignettes of life like this one from Mexico had us pressing our faces to the diplay windows.

 3. New Mexico History Museum and Palace of the Governors.  OK, so I squeezed two museums into one here.  But these are side by side on the historic Santa Fe Plaza, and you’ll want to see both.  Armed with a wealth of information, our docent took us room by room through the collections of over 3,000 costumes, textiles, and artifacts that shaped New Mexico’s history.  (New Mexico History Museum, 113 Lincoln Avenue; 505.476.5200; nmhistorymuseum.org)

Palace of the Governors, originally constructed in the early 17th century and an American Treasure since 1999, allows you to examine shrines, fragments, paintings, etc., in period rooms that tell the history of the region and its people. (Palace of the Governors, 105 West Palace Avenue; 505.476.5100. palaceofthegovernors.org)

Interesting take you on a fascinating journey through the history of New Mexico.

Textiles like this graphic quilt caught my eye.

A People and Their Art

4. Portal Native American Artisans Program. Located under the portal of the Palace of the Governors is a regulated market of area artisans whose work has been juried and approved for authenticity.  We met craftspeople willing to talk about their goods — from the origins of the materials to the actual making and selling.  My takeaways?  A hammered copper bracelet and white stone earrings for me.  A tiny Navajo doll for my granddaughter.  Treasures. (Portal of the Palace of the Governors. nmhistorymuseum.org/campus.php#portal)

Native American artisans line the sidewalk under the portal of the Palace of the Governors.

Brought home silver earrings from this artisan who stayed warm at his shady post.

5. Andrea Fisher Fine Pottery.  The finest examples of pottery in the area arranged by Pueblos and artists.  You can shop online, but nothing compares to being in the showroom examining the pieces and learning (with the help of the highly trained staff) how to identify the art from each region.  My own preference: the graphic black and white art of the Santa Domingo Pueblo.  Or maybe Santa Clara.  Or maybe . . . (100 W. San Francisco Street; 505.986.1234; http://andreafisherpottery.com)

Pottery from Santo Domingo Pueblo on display at Andrea Fisher

Shopping on The Plaza

6. Shiprock.  Far and away my favorite, this upstairs multi-room loft of white walls and old painted floors houses collections of vintage pieces the likes of which I’ve never seen anywhere else.  From classic turquoise bracelets to artisan silver buckles to the largest selection of vintage Navajo weavings in the area. Owner Jed Foutz brings the best to the gallery and then allows knowledgeable people like Director Jamie Way to explain the beauty and the history of the pieces to would-be collectors. Loved the c.1920 saddle blankets, room-filling teepee by Hiroki Nakamura, and Zuni dangle earrings. Like antiques?  Ya gotta go here.

This door on the second floor of The Plaza takes you back in time and right in front of the finest vintage Southwest pieces in town.

Rugs, saddle blankets, and pillows for sale at Shiprock.

Also Faves. (Other shops right around the corner that really deserve a look-see.)

Packards on the Plaza – Exquisite jewelry, carvings, rugs, fetishes, and goods for the home in a classy almost department-store-but-not-quite setting.  Very friendly service and knowledgeable staff.  Many, many pieces beautifully displayed. (61 Old Santa Fe Trail; 505.983.9241. shoppackards.com)

Geri Ortiz, a Packards associate, laid out my rugs of choice for a closer look.

Cutlery of Santa Fe — Where great knives and inlay art comingle for a beautiful, utilitarian must-have for your home. (cutleryofsantafe.com)

Colored pieces of inlaid wood adorn these key rings at Cutlery of Santa Fe.

Tom Taylor of Santa Fe — The finest custom belts and buckles made by Southwest silversmiths, metalworkers, leather carvers, and artists. (http://tomtaylorbuckles.com)

Bert admires the finely wrought belts that can be added to artisan buckles at Tom Taylor.

Lucchese Boot Co. — If “blown away” is a proper term, you definitely will be by the selection of handmade cowboy boots for men and women.  Old styles, new styles, all in that great leather Lucchese is known for — but be prepared to have trouble making up your mind. (57 Old Santa Fe Trail; 505.820.1883. lucchese.com)

Want boots? They’ve got ’em! Lucchese of Santa Fe.

Worship

7. The Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi. Be sure to see the rose window and Loretto Chapel in this classy Romanesque Revival cathedral, built between 1869 and 1886 on the site of an older adobe church.  In 2005, Pope Benedict XVI elevated the cathedral to basilica status. (131 Cathedral Place; 505.982.5619; cbsfa.org)

Someone on the street asked if we wanted our picture taken in front of the Cathedral Basilica. How could we refuse?

Even the statue of Kateri Tekakwitha, first Indian of North America to be promoted a saint, wears turquoise jewelry!

Local Eats

8. Maria’s. With its traditional tile floor, creamy stucco walls, and kiva fireplace, Maria’s reminds you that hometown, casual dining places are popular for a reason.  With over 100 “real” margaritas to choose from (made with real tequila, according to the website), Seattle Times dubbed Maria’s “The Motherlode of American Margaritas”! But we liked sitting in The Cantina and ordering a sizzling platter of chicken fajitas with red AND green salsa (Christmas, it’s called) on the side! Good service.  Good price. (555 West Cordova Road; 505.983.7929. marias-santafe.com)

Ask to sit in the Cantina when you go to Maria’s! Noisy and fun!

Of course, this is just a taste of Sante Fe, a town steeped in history, art, and culture unlike what we see back home in Tennessee.  And with just eight great places to see under our belt, we’re ready to return to make it 16 . . . or 24 . . . or more. We don’t think folks ever get tired of seeing Santa Fe.  We sure didn’t!

“Turn left by the donkey” is what we were told. And that’s how they give directions in Santa Fe!

Santa Fe: A Colorful Journey

(The Official Travel Site of Santa Fe, New Mexico)

www.santafe.org

As seen in the park at The Plaza, Santa Fe.

Night-time shot of Don Gaspar Inn taken from their website: dongaspar.com

Serendipity, by definition (I suppose), comes in many forms.  It was serendipitous that we would happen upon three inns owned by David and Shirley Alford all within the pathway we took from Farmington, New Mexico, up to Durango, Colorado, and then down to Santa Fe.

But it was also serendipitous that the one morning we were dining at the Don Gaspar, the third of the Three Sister Inns owned by the Alfords, we would happen to meet someone that we have now come to know and respect.  (You’ve got to read on now, right?)

Situated in a residential area, the Don Gaspar Inn blends into this lovely setting.

Just as I wrote about the other two inns on the tour — Casa Blanca Inn (Click here for post) in Farmington, New Mexico, and Blue Lake Ranch (Click here) in Durango, Colorado — we found the Don Gaspar Inn in Santa Fe had that same classy Southwestern decor of gathered-over-time Asian, American, Indian, and Spanish pieces.  It works for me! I love seeing what owners select from among their travels and purchases to use in their B&Bs, and the Alfords have put their finds together well.

Based upon where we were traveling that afternoon, we knew we would arrive past check-in time.  We were told our key would be in an envelope near the doorway.  But when we arrived, Paige, the innkeeper who was out walking her dog, saw us, stopped to get the key for us, and then led us to our room.  We recognized the drill. It was that same personal whatever-it-takes service we had received at the other two inns!

Bert’s ready to see our room at the Don Gaspar.

The Olive Tree Room, like the other rooms we enjoyed in the Sister Inns, held a comfortable (to say the least) bed with a carved Asian-inspired headboard and silky sheets.

A dreamkeeper awaited us on our comfortable bed.

On the wall was a Navajo rug (at least I think it’s Navajo!) that blends well and greets guests as they open the room.

A focal point of the room — this folksy rug hung as art.

Comfortable chairs with good lighting between them allowed us to “set a spell” (OK.  I’m Southern.) and check email, peruse brochures on Santa Fe, and flip through the coffee table books as if we were right at home.

Not many rooms come with two great reading chairs!

The bathroom, too, had the same amenities that we found at the other inns — an interesting basin, carved mirror, and nice-smelling shampoos and lotions.

Nicely appointed bathrooms are always appreciated!

Perhaps what stood out for us at Don Gaspar, though, was the morning breakfast time.  You might think when you see this limited space that a squished-in feel would be a negative.

Southwestern sunshine floods the intimate breakfast room.

But it was exactly that closeness that allowed us to get to know the guests so well.  All of us heard everything anyone was saying — from where we lived to what restaurant was a favorite from the night before.  Then we got up and helped our plates from the bountiful buffet again and talked some more!!!

Beautiful buffet setting with rostra (wreath of red chile peppers) above.

Stirring the conversation was the ever-pleasant Ana who worked her magic in a tiny back room to provide the Southwestern casserole and sweet breads that we loved.  In fact, she could work for the tourist bureau with her knowledge of where to eat, how much it costs, and how you get there whether you want a place where the locals hang out or a gourmet dinner cooked by any number of Santa Fe’s creative chefs! (We chose Maria’s on Ana’s recommendation.  Good local hangout with big plates of Southwestern food.)

Ana keeps the conversation (and the hot coffee) going!

And so that’s how it happened.  We were just meeting and greeting each guest. Talking about what to see and do.  And asking where folks were from.  When this gentleman who was having coffee answered my What do you do? question with this answer: I’m an artist.

Look at me. I’m in a photo with Nicholas Herrera!!!

And a pretty famous one at that.  We met Nicholas Herrera, folk artist from New Mexico, whose books about him reveal what he produces: colorful, folksy paintings, carvings, wall art, and put-together pieces that most would say are whimsical and, judging from conversations with gallery owners we met later, just downright desirable.  He’s stayed at the Don Gaspar often, but this particular time he was doing a show at the convention center and delivering a painting to someone meeting him there.

Mixed media on board — commissioned folk art by Nicholas Herrera.

After check-out from the Don Gaspar, we explored Legends Gallery in Santa Fe since a current exhibit included many of Herrera’s pieces. We were fascinated with what we saw.  Like this one entitled Matachina Dancer.

Matachina Dancer (Hand Painted Watercolor, Hand Carved Wood)

And this vignette called Storytelling.

Storytelling (Collaboration with Susan Guevara) Oil, Hand-pigmented Watercolor, Hand-carved Wood

And this hand-carved piece, Santa De Mi Madre.

Close-up of Rosas De Mi Madre (Hand-pigmented watercolor, wood, bullets)

We said our good-byes and looked around again.  Since this was the middle of winter, the lovely flowers in the website pictures of the Don Gaspar‘s grounds were just not present.  But we knew if we could return in spring or summer, we would see a flowing fountain flanked by people enjoying their coffee among nature’s (and the caretaker’s) creations!

Courtyard picture from http://www.dongaspar.com/newsletter-web.html

If you’re in Santa Fe, look up the Don Gaspar Inn.  It’s within walking distance of The Plaza and all the fabulous shopping there.

But, more importantly, it’s a place where people enjoy chatting and swapping tales of good sites to see and good times to be had.  We can highly recommend the Don Gaspar Inn — and its two sisters, the Casa Blanca Inn and Blue Lake Ranch.

You may even want to do what we did:  buy one of those rugs (maybe from Shiprock or Packards on the Plaza) to hang on the wall so you, too, have that Three Sister Inns touch in your home!!!

Don Gaspar Inn

623 Don Gaspar

Santa Fe, NM 87505

888.986.8664

Email: info@dongaspar.com

Website: www.dongaspar.com

Facebook: Don Gaspar Innkeeper