Vintage turquoise in a display case at Shiprock in Santa Fe’s Plaza

Here’s what I’m thinking.  Real travel writers who provide detailed tips on where to go, what to see, and what to eat probably spend time investigating known and unknown spots both prior to and during a trip.  I’m guessing, of course, but real writers mostly talk to locals who tip ’em off to the best of the best and then some — you know, those out-of-the-way places just waiting to be discovered. Kind of like Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives eateries and such. Well, we’re not journalists or freelance writers.  We’re just lucky travelers who found Santa Fe to be more than we ever expected.

To see the art of Santa Fe, you only have to look up! The grand architecture of The Lensic, Santa Fe’s Performing Art Center!

Although we spent only a couple of days in fabulous Santa Fe and moved rapidly from one must-see spot to another, we tried to take in as much as we could on our two-day look-around.  So, when we say we’ve found eight great places, we have.  But it’s by no means the be-all and end-all of What To See in Santa Fe.

Having said that, here are eight of our favorite spots. We think you’ll love ’em, too!

Museums

1. The Georgia O’Keefe Museum.  Distinguishing itself as the only museum dedicated to an internationally known American woman artist, this Place to See showcases Georgia O’Keeffe’s art — colorful, large-scale art: natural forms, cityscapes, and northern New Mexico landscapes.  Don’t miss the video outlining life events that shaped her work as well as the ever-changing exhibit of over 3,000 works.  The museum doesn’t allow photos, so take my word for it:  You really get a feel for the artist and her works from an afternoon’s immersion into her world! (217 Johnson Street; 505.946.1000; okeeffemuseum.org)

These ladies in the O’Keeffe Museum Gift Shop showed us the touris favorites and then invited us to an upcoming tea! Love this place!

2. Museum of International Folk Art. Situated on Museum Hill with three other great venues for Southwestern and Indian art, this international folk art collection is chock full of hand-made creations from around the world.  Check out funky, primitive carvings or vignettes of hundreds of tiny people and creatures housed in glass cases and catalogued for easy viewing and IDing! Allow extra time. You won’t believe this vast collection of stitchery, pottery, masks, dolls, and quirky creations — sure to make you smile! (706 Camino Lejo; 505.476.1200; internationalfolkart.org) Closed Mondays.

Colorful masks from all over the world smiled back at us!

Tiny vignettes of life like this one from Mexico had us pressing our faces to the diplay windows.

 3. New Mexico History Museum and Palace of the Governors.  OK, so I squeezed two museums into one here.  But these are side by side on the historic Santa Fe Plaza, and you’ll want to see both.  Armed with a wealth of information, our docent took us room by room through the collections of over 3,000 costumes, textiles, and artifacts that shaped New Mexico’s history.  (New Mexico History Museum, 113 Lincoln Avenue; 505.476.5200; nmhistorymuseum.org)

Palace of the Governors, originally constructed in the early 17th century and an American Treasure since 1999, allows you to examine shrines, fragments, paintings, etc., in period rooms that tell the history of the region and its people. (Palace of the Governors, 105 West Palace Avenue; 505.476.5100. palaceofthegovernors.org)

Interesting take you on a fascinating journey through the history of New Mexico.

Textiles like this graphic quilt caught my eye.

A People and Their Art

4. Portal Native American Artisans Program. Located under the portal of the Palace of the Governors is a regulated market of area artisans whose work has been juried and approved for authenticity.  We met craftspeople willing to talk about their goods — from the origins of the materials to the actual making and selling.  My takeaways?  A hammered copper bracelet and white stone earrings for me.  A tiny Navajo doll for my granddaughter.  Treasures. (Portal of the Palace of the Governors. nmhistorymuseum.org/campus.php#portal)

Native American artisans line the sidewalk under the portal of the Palace of the Governors.

Brought home silver earrings from this artisan who stayed warm at his shady post.

5. Andrea Fisher Fine Pottery.  The finest examples of pottery in the area arranged by Pueblos and artists.  You can shop online, but nothing compares to being in the showroom examining the pieces and learning (with the help of the highly trained staff) how to identify the art from each region.  My own preference: the graphic black and white art of the Santa Domingo Pueblo.  Or maybe Santa Clara.  Or maybe . . . (100 W. San Francisco Street; 505.986.1234; http://andreafisherpottery.com)

Pottery from Santo Domingo Pueblo on display at Andrea Fisher

Shopping on The Plaza

6. Shiprock.  Far and away my favorite, this upstairs multi-room loft of white walls and old painted floors houses collections of vintage pieces the likes of which I’ve never seen anywhere else.  From classic turquoise bracelets to artisan silver buckles to the largest selection of vintage Navajo weavings in the area. Owner Jed Foutz brings the best to the gallery and then allows knowledgeable people like Director Jamie Way to explain the beauty and the history of the pieces to would-be collectors. Loved the c.1920 saddle blankets, room-filling teepee by Hiroki Nakamura, and Zuni dangle earrings. Like antiques?  Ya gotta go here.

This door on the second floor of The Plaza takes you back in time and right in front of the finest vintage Southwest pieces in town.

Rugs, saddle blankets, and pillows for sale at Shiprock.

Also Faves. (Other shops right around the corner that really deserve a look-see.)

Packards on the Plaza – Exquisite jewelry, carvings, rugs, fetishes, and goods for the home in a classy almost department-store-but-not-quite setting.  Very friendly service and knowledgeable staff.  Many, many pieces beautifully displayed. (61 Old Santa Fe Trail; 505.983.9241. shoppackards.com)

Geri Ortiz, a Packards associate, laid out my rugs of choice for a closer look.

Cutlery of Santa Fe — Where great knives and inlay art comingle for a beautiful, utilitarian must-have for your home. (cutleryofsantafe.com)

Colored pieces of inlaid wood adorn these key rings at Cutlery of Santa Fe.

Tom Taylor of Santa Fe — The finest custom belts and buckles made by Southwest silversmiths, metalworkers, leather carvers, and artists. (http://tomtaylorbuckles.com)

Bert admires the finely wrought belts that can be added to artisan buckles at Tom Taylor.

Lucchese Boot Co. — If “blown away” is a proper term, you definitely will be by the selection of handmade cowboy boots for men and women.  Old styles, new styles, all in that great leather Lucchese is known for — but be prepared to have trouble making up your mind. (57 Old Santa Fe Trail; 505.820.1883. lucchese.com)

Want boots? They’ve got ’em! Lucchese of Santa Fe.

Worship

7. The Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi. Be sure to see the rose window and Loretto Chapel in this classy Romanesque Revival cathedral, built between 1869 and 1886 on the site of an older adobe church.  In 2005, Pope Benedict XVI elevated the cathedral to basilica status. (131 Cathedral Place; 505.982.5619; cbsfa.org)

Someone on the street asked if we wanted our picture taken in front of the Cathedral Basilica. How could we refuse?

Even the statue of Kateri Tekakwitha, first Indian of North America to be promoted a saint, wears turquoise jewelry!

Local Eats

8. Maria’s. With its traditional tile floor, creamy stucco walls, and kiva fireplace, Maria’s reminds you that hometown, casual dining places are popular for a reason.  With over 100 “real” margaritas to choose from (made with real tequila, according to the website), Seattle Times dubbed Maria’s “The Motherlode of American Margaritas”! But we liked sitting in The Cantina and ordering a sizzling platter of chicken fajitas with red AND green salsa (Christmas, it’s called) on the side! Good service.  Good price. (555 West Cordova Road; 505.983.7929. marias-santafe.com)

Ask to sit in the Cantina when you go to Maria’s! Noisy and fun!

Of course, this is just a taste of Sante Fe, a town steeped in history, art, and culture unlike what we see back home in Tennessee.  And with just eight great places to see under our belt, we’re ready to return to make it 16 . . . or 24 . . . or more. We don’t think folks ever get tired of seeing Santa Fe.  We sure didn’t!

“Turn left by the donkey” is what we were told. And that’s how they give directions in Santa Fe!

Santa Fe: A Colorful Journey

(The Official Travel Site of Santa Fe, New Mexico)

www.santafe.org

As seen in the park at The Plaza, Santa Fe.

Night-time shot of Don Gaspar Inn taken from their website: dongaspar.com

Serendipity, by definition (I suppose), comes in many forms.  It was serendipitous that we would happen upon three inns owned by David and Shirley Alford all within the pathway we took from Farmington, New Mexico, up to Durango, Colorado, and then down to Santa Fe.

But it was also serendipitous that the one morning we were dining at the Don Gaspar, the third of the Three Sister Inns owned by the Alfords, we would happen to meet someone that we have now come to know and respect.  (You’ve got to read on now, right?)

Situated in a residential area, the Don Gaspar Inn blends into this lovely setting.

Just as I wrote about the other two inns on the tour — Casa Blanca Inn (Click here for post) in Farmington, New Mexico, and Blue Lake Ranch (Click here) in Durango, Colorado — we found the Don Gaspar Inn in Santa Fe had that same classy Southwestern decor of gathered-over-time Asian, American, Indian, and Spanish pieces.  It works for me! I love seeing what owners select from among their travels and purchases to use in their B&Bs, and the Alfords have put their finds together well.

Based upon where we were traveling that afternoon, we knew we would arrive past check-in time.  We were told our key would be in an envelope near the doorway.  But when we arrived, Paige, the innkeeper who was out walking her dog, saw us, stopped to get the key for us, and then led us to our room.  We recognized the drill. It was that same personal whatever-it-takes service we had received at the other two inns!

Bert’s ready to see our room at the Don Gaspar.

The Olive Tree Room, like the other rooms we enjoyed in the Sister Inns, held a comfortable (to say the least) bed with a carved Asian-inspired headboard and silky sheets.

A dreamkeeper awaited us on our comfortable bed.

On the wall was a Navajo rug (at least I think it’s Navajo!) that blends well and greets guests as they open the room.

A focal point of the room — this folksy rug hung as art.

Comfortable chairs with good lighting between them allowed us to “set a spell” (OK.  I’m Southern.) and check email, peruse brochures on Santa Fe, and flip through the coffee table books as if we were right at home.

Not many rooms come with two great reading chairs!

The bathroom, too, had the same amenities that we found at the other inns — an interesting basin, carved mirror, and nice-smelling shampoos and lotions.

Nicely appointed bathrooms are always appreciated!

Perhaps what stood out for us at Don Gaspar, though, was the morning breakfast time.  You might think when you see this limited space that a squished-in feel would be a negative.

Southwestern sunshine floods the intimate breakfast room.

But it was exactly that closeness that allowed us to get to know the guests so well.  All of us heard everything anyone was saying — from where we lived to what restaurant was a favorite from the night before.  Then we got up and helped our plates from the bountiful buffet again and talked some more!!!

Beautiful buffet setting with rostra (wreath of red chile peppers) above.

Stirring the conversation was the ever-pleasant Ana who worked her magic in a tiny back room to provide the Southwestern casserole and sweet breads that we loved.  In fact, she could work for the tourist bureau with her knowledge of where to eat, how much it costs, and how you get there whether you want a place where the locals hang out or a gourmet dinner cooked by any number of Santa Fe’s creative chefs! (We chose Maria’s on Ana’s recommendation.  Good local hangout with big plates of Southwestern food.)

Ana keeps the conversation (and the hot coffee) going!

And so that’s how it happened.  We were just meeting and greeting each guest. Talking about what to see and do.  And asking where folks were from.  When this gentleman who was having coffee answered my What do you do? question with this answer: I’m an artist.

Look at me. I’m in a photo with Nicholas Herrera!!!

And a pretty famous one at that.  We met Nicholas Herrera, folk artist from New Mexico, whose books about him reveal what he produces: colorful, folksy paintings, carvings, wall art, and put-together pieces that most would say are whimsical and, judging from conversations with gallery owners we met later, just downright desirable.  He’s stayed at the Don Gaspar often, but this particular time he was doing a show at the convention center and delivering a painting to someone meeting him there.

Mixed media on board — commissioned folk art by Nicholas Herrera.

After check-out from the Don Gaspar, we explored Legends Gallery in Santa Fe since a current exhibit included many of Herrera’s pieces. We were fascinated with what we saw.  Like this one entitled Matachina Dancer.

Matachina Dancer (Hand Painted Watercolor, Hand Carved Wood)

And this vignette called Storytelling.

Storytelling (Collaboration with Susan Guevara) Oil, Hand-pigmented Watercolor, Hand-carved Wood

And this hand-carved piece, Santa De Mi Madre.

Close-up of Rosas De Mi Madre (Hand-pigmented watercolor, wood, bullets)

We said our good-byes and looked around again.  Since this was the middle of winter, the lovely flowers in the website pictures of the Don Gaspar‘s grounds were just not present.  But we knew if we could return in spring or summer, we would see a flowing fountain flanked by people enjoying their coffee among nature’s (and the caretaker’s) creations!

Courtyard picture from http://www.dongaspar.com/newsletter-web.html

If you’re in Santa Fe, look up the Don Gaspar Inn.  It’s within walking distance of The Plaza and all the fabulous shopping there.

But, more importantly, it’s a place where people enjoy chatting and swapping tales of good sites to see and good times to be had.  We can highly recommend the Don Gaspar Inn — and its two sisters, the Casa Blanca Inn and Blue Lake Ranch.

You may even want to do what we did:  buy one of those rugs (maybe from Shiprock or Packards on the Plaza) to hang on the wall so you, too, have that Three Sister Inns touch in your home!!!

Don Gaspar Inn

623 Don Gaspar

Santa Fe, NM 87505

888.986.8664

Email: info@dongaspar.com

Website: www.dongaspar.com

Facebook: Don Gaspar Innkeeper

Beautifully carved columns frame one of the porches at Blue Lake Ranch. (Photo from Website: http://www.bluelakeranch.com)

The second day of our New Mexico journey took us from the Casa Blanca Inn  in Farmington to the town of Shiprock on the Navajo reservation where I conducted a workshop for teachers. (Click here for post on Casa Blanca Inn.)

Wanting to combine work with pleasure, my husband and I booked the second of the Three Sister Inns owned by David and Shirley Alford and found our favorite by far — Blue Lake Ranch in Hesperus, Colorado — only 30 minutes away from Mesa Verde National Park.

View from the Cabin on the Lake

Marked only by a small lighted mailbox on Highway 140, Blue Lake Ranch is unknown even to most locals. But the ranch is a wonder with 230 acres of natural vegetation, trout-filled lakes, and spectacular gardens bursting with color from heirloom flowers and over 10,000 irises.

You may find yourself wondering if you’re in the right place as the winding  road (newly paved, by the way) meanders to the front door of the main house.

Although winter gardens offer little in the way of color, the entrance still beckons travelers to a lovely Southwestern hideaway.

We stood in awe of the elegantly furnished Southwestern living room. (Just typical good taste, Alford style, like the Casa Blanca Inn, I suppose.)

Alexis, the inn’s new manager, opened a scrapbook to reveal a picture of the abandoned shell of a homestead that Don found and developed into a property now celebrated as one of the best “hidden getaways” in the U.S.

Humble beginnings of Blue Lake Ranch as found by Don Alford

Impressive to say the least.  Not just for the property turnaround but also for the grounds, casitas, cabins, and main house appointed with collections gathered over time.

With an expanse of windows to catch the view, the living room is always open to guests.

You may think that Tuesday night in November is not the ideal time to sink into a luxury B&B, but there are some advantages:  We had the place to ourselves and our choice of rooms.  Lucky us.  Just upstairs with a balcony facing the sunset over Blue Lake, we settled in to the La Plata Vista Room with comforts we were becoming accustomed to on this Three Sisters Tour!

Carved headboard and sink-in bed linens typify the sleeping area of the La Plata Vista Room.

Providing ambience and warmth were Navajo rugs, hand-painted pottery, rough-hewn furniture, and, for the second night in a row, our very own Kiva fireplace.

We’ve come to love Kiva fireplaces. Doesn’t Tennessee need to know about these, too?

Southwestern touches extended to the sink area with copper basin and personalized punched-tin light fixture.

Unique lighting above the mirror and basin of the dressing area.

Satiny sheets and lofty down comforter enticed us to linger in bed, but not for long.  We wanted to see the inn in the early light of day and sample what we knew would be a breakfast to remember.

Personalized Louisville Stoneware mugs stand ready to hold the morning java.

Downstairs, hand-woven baskets lined up over doorways . . .

Navajo baskets circle-up above the doors.

and Indian figures stood guard on the mantel.

Lined up in native dress, these figures stand tall at Blue Lake!

A watercolor of the main house faces the coffee bar . . .

leading us to the buffet set just for us.  We placed an order for eggs over-easy, then grazed accordingly on granola and yogurt, sausage patties, and homemade bread with house jam — Blue Lake Ranch Peach & Raspberry — sold in the gift shop. (Note to readers:  Unless you want an airline dude to get the breakfast you dreamed of having back home, do NOT pack jam in your carry-on bag!)

Breakfast buffet ready for the taking!

At Blue Lake, people make the difference.  We listened with interest as Alexis told us of her personal cross-country journey in her own RV (alone!), and then heard how Maggie became involved with the properties, too.  In fact, Maggie said she had booked a night at the Don Gaspar Inn, the third of the Three Sister Inns, in Santa Fe, the following Friday – the same night we’d be there!

Maggie poses in the Gift Shop

For dinner, Alexis recommended Kennebec Cafe & Bakery.  We expected a Mom-and-Pop meat-and-three, but what we found was a gourmet experience due in part to the creative chef and gregarious waiter who treated us like locals.   If you go, try flatbread with mushrooms, asiago cheese, asparagus, arugula, and crispy prosciutto — if the chef’s of a mind to offer that as one of his nightly specials!

Alexis, the lady who traveled the US in her own RV, makes the best dinner reservations!!

Saying good-bye was difficult, so we took out time driving the property, scoping out the other cabins available for nightly or weekly stays.

Porches like this are meant to face the great outdoors and Blue Lake, and we dream of returning some day, rocking in the chairs and waiting for the sunset while nature unfolds in this heavenly retreat.

A porch on one of the rental cabins faces the lake and invites total relaxation!

Enjoying a few last leisurely moments in the sun-filled breakfast room at Blue Lake Ranch. And then off to Mesa Verde!

It’s not too late to take advantage of the Three Sisters Road Trip.  Stay in all three inns and receive a discount — all three times!  (http://www.bluelakeranch.com/summerspecials.htm

Note: You’ll find the address on the Website for Blue Lake Ranch as Durango, Colorado, as well as Hesperus, Colorado.  So just call Alexis for directions.  You can’t get too lost, unless you want to . . . right there on the property!

Blue Lake Ranch

16919 Hwy 140

Hesperus, CO 81326

970.385.4537 (8-6pm MST)

www.BlueLakeRanch.com

Commissioned banner hand-made for the owners of the Casa Blanca Inn.

When a business opportunity training teachers in Shiprock, New Mexico, opened up in November, I jumped at the chance to work and then sight-see in this state that has always been on my Bucket List.  I searched the Internet only to find that Shiprock lacks accommodations, but, lucky for me and my husband, we found the Casa Blanca Inn in nearby Farmington. 

The beautiful Casa Blanca Inn — picture taken from website: http://www.4cornersbandb.com

And what a find it was!

Greeted by a friendly night watchman who immediately grabbed our suitcases, we passed by what he called a frozen wedding cake — a three-tiered fountain in the middle of the courtyard caught by a sudden drop in temperature!

Casa Blanca’s frozen fountain

In searching for places to stay, you may have experienced the same hesitation that my husband Bert and I do: Do the lovely website pictures translate into picture-perfect rooms and experiences? Really?

But when we checked in, all doubts were removed.  We were greeted by a group of people playing bridge in the sunny breakfast room (the innkeeper among them) and a well-appointed upgrade room filled with Southwestern decor and collectibles we had never seen before.

The Chaco Suite at the Casa Blanca Inn, Farmington NM

When we entered our room — the Chaco Suite — we were immediately struck by the smooth adobe walls, colorful Navajo rugs, wall hangings, and collections of pottery and baskets throughout.  We could have stayed a week with the more-than-ample kitchen (stove, refrigerator, dishes, and great selection of coffee and tea) and an eating area that could double as an office! (Which it did!)

With a mixture of textures and international styles, the suite held items acquired by the owners, David and Shirley Alford, who have been adding their decorative and personal touches since 2003 when they acquired the Casa Blanca Inn.   For example, the hand-painted headboard of this sumptuous king bed (love the down comforter and luxe linens!) reminded us of travels in the Far East, while other decor elements like Navajo rugs, baskets and plates blended to make it all work together.

Featuring an international blend of colors and design elements, the bed offered a luxury spot for sleeping.

The bathroom, too, held decorator touches — framed artwork, painted sink, and folk art bowls in addition to the amenities we enjoyed — walk-in shower and Jacuzzi tub. Best of all, we loved the heated tile floors!

Design elements add interest to the sizable bathroom.

Detail of the beautiful bathroom sink in the Chaco Suite.

On the wall in the bedroom, this composition of plant materials caught my eye. As I looked more closely, I could see that each piece on the board was a source for natural dyes. The woven piece in the middle held strands from each dye lot, linking to the source. 

Central weaving with dyed yarns attached to plant sources.

Of course, I had to have one to take back home.  And I found one — made by a Navajo woman from Shiprock at a downtown trading post. (Later, I realized that trading posts are  sources of great deals throughout New Mexico, so I was ever watchful for the next great post in sight).

Another find is a Kiva fireplace, something we definitely don’t see in Tennessee!  Regulated by a thermostat, the gas fireplace provided the only source of heat we needed on a fairly cold night, so we snuggled up with Southwestern magazines and travel literature before hitting that king-size bed!

Two comfortable chairs face the Kiva fireplace – a romantic and practical source of heat!

The main house held other objects of affection, collected over time

Living room of the commons area at Casa Blanca Inn.

— like this grouping of painted gourds on the dining room buffet.

And this line-up of quality hand-made pottery showing geometric designs wrought by steady hands.

Although I had to leave early for my Shiprock training session and miss the breakfast, Bert reported that it was outstanding:  granola and yogurt along with huevos rancheros.  And rich, black coffee!

Detail of pottery on display at Casa Blanca Inn

As advertised on the Internet, you can stay at the Three Sister Inns (Casa Blanca in Farmington; Blue Lake Ranch in Hesperus, CO; and Don Gaspar in Santa Fe) and save 10% at each.  So, on to Blue Lake and our next adventure.  Be sure to check our next post to read about this tucked-away gem of an inn with a marvelous sunset view!

If you’re in Farmington, consider the Casa Blanca Inn for a night or two.  It’s luxury . . . Southwestern style!

The owners’ collections take center stage in commons area of the Casa Blanca Inn.

Casa Blanca Inn

505 East La Plata Street

Farmington, NM 87401

1-800-550-6503

http://www.4cornersbandb.com/index.htm

Have you traveled New Mexico?  Tell us what you recommend.  We may make a return trip armed with your ideas!