The Jekyll Island Club, Jekyll Island, Georgia

Our Coasting series continues with a short one-day trip to Jekyll Island, one of four barrier islands in Georgia. Although Jekyll can boast of lovely marshes, moss-draped live oaks, and quiet beaches, it was the historically lavish lifestyle of the rich and famous that drew us to the historic district where several of the buildings of the Jekyll Island Club still stand.

One wing of the Jekyll Island Club facing the croquet lawn.

It was Newton Finney (served briefly as captain of engineers on Robert E. Lee’s staff during the Civil War) and his brother-in-law, John Eugene DuBignon, who dreamed of developing a hunt club for wealthy northerners.  Between 1879 and 1885, the men acquired the land and convinced investors to create the exclusive Jekyll Island Club. Finney and DuBignon then sold the newly incorporated club to the 53 member investors among whom were “Men of Means” (as the plaque on the grounds dubbed them) such as J. P. Morgan, Joseph Pulitzer, William K. Vanderbilt, Henry Hyde, and Marshall Field.

The iconic turret of the Jekyll Island Club.

Officially opened in 1888, the Queen Anne style Clubhouse, designed by Charles Alexander of Chicago, was hailed for its notable details — a signature turret, bay windows, leaded art glass, and sizable rooms with tall ceilings.  Club members and their families engaged in leisure activities that even today sound sumptuous — yachting, hunting, lawn parties, carriage rides, and formal dining in the evenings.  And yes, we were there on a day when white-clad players of croquet took to the front lawn much as we imagine the club members might have done.  Ah, the good ol’ days!

A game of croquet on the lawn of the Jekyll Island Club

Some of the cottages are open for tours; some can be rented.  Sans Souci (“without care”) was one of the first condominiums built in America with its original six units, owned in part by J. P. Morgan. Still in tact are the original floors, skylight, and stairway.(jekyllclub.com/accommodations)

America’s first condominium? Sans Souci on Jekyll Island

Other cottages are open only for tours.  Like Indian Mound Cottage, home of William and Almira Rockefeller, built in the early 1900s, subject of this video posted on YouTube.

Indian Mound Cottage, home of William and Almira Rockefeller

It’s a good idea to take a trolley ride complete with talkative driver elaborating on the history, architecture, and social life. Or just sit back and relax to the clop-clop of horses’ hooves as you tour by horse-drawn carriage.

Touring Jekyll by horse-drawn carriage.

And, if you’re wondering, you can (YES!!!) be a guest yourself at the elegant Jekyll Island Club where the interior is as interesting and luxurious as the exterior.

Sitting room, Jekyll Island Club

We sauntered out to the Jekyll Island Wharf for a leisure lunch and watched sea birds fly by, all the while pretending that we could be one of the Astors or Rockefellers or Morgans enjoying a picnic beside the sea.

Jekyll Island Wharf

Pulling away from the lap of luxury wasn’t easy, but we were interested in what else the island had to offer.  A lot, as it turned out.  Like Horton House Historic Site located on North Riverview Drive.

Needing a residence for his family still residing in England in the 1730s, Major William Horton (who served as second in command of General James Oglethorpe’s regiment) cleared a tract of land and built the sturdy structure now known as Horton House.

What remains of Horton House, built by Major William Horton around 1740.

Horton House was built of tabby, a building material introduced to us during our tour of Fort Frederica.  Tabby is created by mixing water, lime, sand, and oyster shells. But Horton had to first burn oyster shells to create lime, then mix the tabby, and finally pour it all into the forms that still remain today.  The house has been burned, rebuilt, and abandoned, but is now preserved as a designated historic site, open daily to the public.

Horton House, Jekyll Island

No matter what you choose to do on Jekyll Island — from looking at historic markers to roaming the beaches to pretending you, too, are a descendant of the Astors or Vanderbilts — you can’t escape the elegance and history of an “old money” world gone by.

No more cycling. We’re at the beach!

For more information, resources:

Explore Southern History: Horton House: http://www.exploresouthernhistory.com/hortonhouse.html

Jekyll Island, Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jekyll_Island

Jekyll Island Club Hotel: A Historic Landmark Experience: http://www.jekyllclub.com

Jekyll Island Club – Haunted Houses: http://www.hauntedhouses.com/states/ga/jekyll_island.htm

Jekyll Island, Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/JekyllIsland

For more posts in the Coasting series: 

• Goin’ coastal before and after the TaxSlayer Bowl
• Coasting: The laid-back vibes of Tybee Island
• Coasting: Beautiful St. Simons Island
• Coasting: The serenity of Christ Church on St. Simons Island
• Coasting: Three reasons to stroll through Fort Frederica on St. Simons

Christ Church, St. Simons Island, Georgia

Known as one of America’s most beautiful churches, Christ Church offers a serene place of worship on St. Simons Island, Georgia.  Surrounded by trees draped with delicate Spanish moss, Christ Church, an active Episcopalian congregation, is a tribute to the work of brothers Charles and John Wesley, those involved in the initial building in 1820, and those who reconstructed it after Union forces damaged it heavily during the Civil War.

Doorway of Christ Church decorated for Christmas 2014

Brothers Charles and John Wesley ministered to the early colonists at Fort Frederica. And it is to the memory of those early ministers that the church owes its beginnings in the parish that dates back to 1808. John was later credited with founding the modern Methodist church while Charles is better known for the creation of hymns such as the popular “Hark! The Herald Angels Sing.” (Information from ExploreSouthernHistory.com)

The church that you can visit today is the 1884 rebuilt structure with beautiful stained glass windows, white facade, and elegant steeple.  Visiting in early January, we were able to see the traditional, natural Christmas decorations on railings and fences as well as on the doorway.

Natural Christmas decorations in cemetery at Christ Church, St. Simons

The cemetery is one of the oldest in Georgia, and often visitors want to see the grave of Eugenia Price, a noted local author (Beloved Invader, Lighthouse, New Moon Rising) who arrived with the notion she would write for a while in St. Simons but then fell in love with the area and became a permanent resident.

One of many headstones at Christ Church and Cemetery, St. Simons

Across the road from the church is Wesley Gardens, a two-acre plot filled with over 60 varieties of shrubs and native plants.  The centerpiece of Wesley Gardens — a towering 18-foot Celtic cross of Georgia stone — pays tribute to the work of the Revs. Charles and John Wesley.

Wesley Memorial, St. Simons Island

We loved our time at both Wesley Gardens and Christ Church — a time to stroll quietly and almost alone.  A time to reflect among the towering trees and along the peaceful walkways. It was a different feel to a coastal town experience.  You leave the beach behind and just appreciate the almost silent time away from it all — a good thing on anyone’s Things To Do vacation list!

For more information:

Christ Church Tour of Homes (62nd annual event) will be held March 21, 2015.  For information, click here.

Website with information on Wesley Memorial Gardens and Christ Church and Cemetery: ExploreSouthernHistory.com.

Website on Eugenia Price: http://www.gacoast.com/navigator/ep2.html

If you’re going there:

Christ Church and Cemetery, 6329 Frederica Road, St. Simons Island, Georgia

Church can be visited Tuesday through Saturday from 2 PM to 5 PM. Cemetery and grounds can be visited sunrise to sunset Tuesday through Sunday.

To view Wesley Memorial Gardens — park at Christ Church on Frederica Road and walk across the street.

Posts in the Coasting series:

• Goin’ Coastal before and after the Taxslayer Bowl
• Coasting: The laid-back vibes of Tybee Island
• Coasting: The beautiful St. Simons Island

St. Simons Island Pier

Although leaving Tybee Island, the subject of our previous post, was a downer, our second island hop on the Georgia and Florida coastal town tour landed us on one of the four barrier islands in the Golden Isles — St. Simons Island.  The Golden Isles, nestled between Savannah, Georgia, and Jacksonville, Florida, includes Brunswick on the mainland and the islands of St. Simons, Little St. Simons Island, Sea Island, and Jekyll Island. Voted America’s #1 Romantic Town and America’s #1 Favorite Beach Town by Travel and Leisure, St. Simons was a must-see destination on our tour.  But knowing little about what to do and where to stay, we consulted fellow travel bloggers James and Terri Vance, writers of Gallivance.  Good thing we did.  Their suggestions formed the basis of our two-day sightseeing joy.

View of Pier Village from the St. Simons Island Pier

Pier Village of St. Simons pulled us in — we thought we’d just take a quick drive around town.  But at the sight of so many people — families mostly — walking out to the pier, we parked immediately.  St. Simons Island Pier is THE place for strolling, fishing, taking pictures and looking back at the mainland at more places you want to see like the lighthouse, Neptune Park, and stately homes along the water.

The family-friendly nature of St. Simons charmed us — pathways, park benches, and play structures provide gathering spots for people of all ages.

Climb aboard . . .

A short walk from the park took us to St. Simons Lighthouse and Museum (101 Twelfth Street). With 129 steps to the top, St. Simons Lighthouse bests the Tybee Lighthouse by one step. First constructed in 1807 by James Gould, the original St. Simons light was destroyed by Confederate forces.  The current lighthouse, built in 1827, replaced the original one a mere 25 feet away from the first location with a lighthouse keeper’s house erected beside it.  Although Gould had to climb the original lighthouse several times a day to keep the flame lit, no one is needed now since a Fresnel lens and timer were added in 1953. (For the full history, click here.)

St. Simons Island Lighthouse and keeper’s house, now converted to a museum.

Perhaps the beauty of St. Simons for us, however, lay in its natural scenery.  Small parks tucked into various areas of town are ideal for wandering about, and, if you did nothing else but note the live oaks and Spanish moss, you would have an excellent feel for the area.

We paused for photographs and reminiscences since we both grew up in South Louisiana, knowing massive trees such as these quite well.

James Vance (Gallivance) encouraged us to set our alarms, head out early to Gould’s Inlet (Fifteenth Street, Bruce Drive), and take in the St. Simons sunrise, a favorite activity for him and wife Terri.  We did.  Sitting in our car in the dark in the public parking area, we watched as others gathered — some with dogs, others alone — all waiting for nature’s show.

Early morning dawn at Gould’s Inlet, St. Simons Island

But, alas, no sun rose on the two mornings we braved the cold and darkness.  Not to worry, however.  We loved the gray atmosphere, the light misty fog, and our leisurely stroll along this premier beach property.

Walking the beach at Gould’s Inlet

A conversation we initiated with a local, however, netted us a new term.  Do you live here? we asked.  I do, said the man.  And I come out every morning to walk along the beach near the Johnson rocks.  Johnson rocks? we asked.  Yes. Brought to the beach during the Johnson administration, he chuckled.  And thus the name. So we, too, feeling smug with our new-found local term (accurate or not) walked among and along the “Johnson rocks,” capturing an early-morning glimpse at low tide of the now-visible sand bars and people carrying coffee mugs as they slid into morning calmly.

A climb along the “Johnson Rocks,” St. Simons Island

St. Simons is more than just a beach town.  It’s a place for year-round living with its natural beauty, city planning that ensures family activities, and a restful, mostly unspoiled view of the Old South — at least along the coast.

If you’re planning a trip to St. Simons:

Check out these informative sites for where to stay, eat, and play:

• Explore St. Simons Island
• TripAdvisor: St. Simons Island

View from balcony, Village Inn and Pub, St. Simons

Where we stayed:  Village Inn and Pub (500 Mallery Street; 912-634-6056; http://www.villageinnandpub.com/) Lovely traditional rooms, Continental breakfast, on-site pub.

Where we ate: Barbara Jean’s (214 Mallery Street; 912-634-6500; http://www.barbarajeans.com/) Casual atmosphere, seafood and Southern cooking (excellent crab cakes and shrimp and grits), pleasant service.

In our next post, we’ll show you Fort Frederica and Christ Church, two St. Simons attractions everyone should see.

And there’s plenty more to do on St. Simons, according to the website — golf, fishing, biking, etc.  Check it out here!  You just may have to go Coasting in St. Simons!

Previous posts in the Coasting series:

• Goin’ Coastal before and after the TaxSlayer Bowl
• Coasting: The laid-back vibes of Tybee Island

But in our usual “let’s-see-what-else-we-can-see-along-the way” mode, we decided to cruise the coast a bit from Tybee Island down to St. Augustine and then over to Amelia Island stopping in Jekyll and St. Simons along the way.  After all, getting there is half the fun, right?

So, join us on our brief but jam-packed tour before and after the bowl.  We’re calling the series “Coasting” — ’cause that’s what we did.  Cruised the coast with eyes wide open.  It’s a series you don’t want to miss.

It’s a sea of orange at the TaxSlayer Bowl where Tennessee defeated Iowa 45 to 28 — first win in a bowl game in seven years!

Coming soon to Oh, the Places We See:  Coasting!

The beautiful marina at Amelia Island at sunset. We’re coasting! Come join us!

Sting Ray’s on Tybee Island — Sitting outside under the heat lamps dining on hot, steamed shrimp and spicy gumbo.  Mmm.  You can almost taste the warmth.

Dining under the heat lamps at Sting Ray’s, Tybee Island

The Breakfast Club — The fittest weight lifters who also, by the way, cook breakfast over hot griddles broke the chill with their Eggs Florentine, grilled English muffins, and veggie omelettes.

Can you tell he works out?

But it wasn’t just the griddle that was hot.  These guys were fun.  When asked if they’d pose for a picture, here’s what we got.  With all that warmth and charm in a busy breakfast place, wouldn’t you want to be a return customer?  We do!

Hammin’ it up at The Breakfast Club, Tybee Island, Georgia

For more entries in the WordPress Weekly Photo Challenge: Warmth, click here.

For warmth and great eating, check out:

Sting Ray’s, 14th & Butler Avenue,  Tybee Island, Georgia, 31328:  stingraysontybee.com and Facebook.

The Breakfast Club, 1500 Butler Avenue, Tybee Island, Georgia 31328; thebreakfastclubtybee.com and Facebook.

Tybee Island lighthouse — Georgia coast

For more entries in Ailsa’s Travel theme: Minimalist on her blog Where’s My Backpack, click here.

For more on the Tybee Island Lighthouse, click on their website or Facebook page.