Towels drying on the line: Cinque Terre

to boats lined up and waiting at the base of the famous postcard-pretty hillside where small apartments and houses vie for space on the mountainside.

Boats lined up in Manarola

Half-opened shutters exposed their lines to the morning sun.

Green shutters: Cinque Terre

And wavy lines of umbrellas shaded bathers on a crowded coast

Umbrellas on the beach: Cinque Terre

while two churches stood out among other buildings with their  distinguished lined facades.

A lined facade in Cinque Terre

Distinctive entrance: church in Cinque Terre

Find more lines — straight and curvy —  at Weekly Photo Challenge: Lines.

Bubble blowers on the sidewalks of Prague.

Keep moving and you’ll see street vendors who make the most of their small display space by hanging their wares above you, dangling in the air.

Suspended marionettes in Prague

And roofers must have been quite busy as early as the 9th century topping buildings with red clay tiles that you can best see from Prague Castle.

Prague’s red clay roofs

Be sure to check out all the interpretations of this week’s Weekly Photo Challenge: Prolific.  

If you live in Varenna, you probably have to get accustomed to steep, but lovely, climbs.

This week’s Travel Theme: Steps from Ailsa who writes the blog Where’s My Backback? reminded us of the many steps we took in Varenna, Italy.  Walking there can be a challenge, if all you’re accustomed to is your fitness routine on even pavement in your neighborhood.  Walks in Varenna are definitely a step up, but when you’re in a beautiful town on Lake Como, you probably don’t mind at all.  Here are some of the steps we took.

After heaving luggage up steep steps, we paused at the doorway of our rental apartment from VRBO to admire this sweet greenhouse nestled above the stone walkway.

Pretty as a picture: a backyard greenhouse and stone steps in Varenna.

In town, we walked along water’s edge, following the signature red railing along Lake Como.

Stepping out in Varenna

The gardens of Villa Monastero offered even more steps with some leading directly to water’s edge . . .

Steps and statues: the gardens of Villa Monastero.

and others lined with artfully planted urns.

Concrete urns lining a walkway at Villa Monastero

If you plan a trip to Lake Como, know that you’ll be walking up and down.  But you won’t mind.  You’ll think you’re on stairways to heaven.

More photos are just a step away:  Travel theme: Steps.

Bert and our driver from Stanton, Gloucestershire, admire the transom windows, iron bell, and door knocker of this original door.

If you thought all doors in the Cotswolds would be similar, you’d be mistaken.  And we stand mistaken.  We envisioned most of them as brown, heavy wooden structures, some with hand-forged hardware, some just plain.  But really we didn’t think much about Cotswolds doors until we saw them.  If there are a thousand doors, then there are a thousand styles.  And each is to be appreciated for its individuality.

Of course, one door we were most grateful to see was this one , a most sought-after door for tourists!

A welcome sight in the Cotswolds!

Want to see more doors today?  You’ll find them on Norm’s Thursday Doors.

And for our first round of Cotswold doors, click here.

Front entrance, Lords of the Manor

Sometimes you yearn for a bit of luxury in your life.  And if you’re staying in the Cotswolds of England, that bit of luxury — and more — can be found at the award-winning Lords of the Manor Hotel and Restaurant in Gloucestershire known for fine cuisine and lovely English gardens.

Lords of the Manor Hotel & Restaurant, Upper Slaughter, Gloucestershire, England

A former rectory, Lords of the Manor is situated on eight acres in Upper Slaughter, a perfectly charming village near other picturesque towns such as Bourton-on-the-Water and Stow-on-the-Wold.  Named “Country House Hotel of the Year” by Good Hotel Guide, this luxury inn more than lives up to its reputation and Michelin Star rating.

The Welcome

Even if you arrive after dark as we did, you find the kindest of people at the ready to acclimate you to Lords of the Manor and your special room.  As we discovered, almost anything can be had for the asking.

Friendly, helpful, and downright conversational — the desk clerk at Lords of the Manor

On the second morning of our stay, we told the woman at the desk (cheery even after long days extending into night) that wintertime didn’t afford us the opportunity to actually see the place in daylight since we spent our days touring, arriving “home” after dark.

Early morning tour of the grounds at Lords of the Manor

She immediately offered us a map of the walled garden, flashlights for our convenience, and wellies by the door!  Welcome to Lords of the Manor!

Wellies by the door: Lords of the Manor

The Accommodations

We can’t speak for all rooms, but our bedroom could be described as luxuriously comfortable.  It was what we expected of English decor — a blend of patterns on curtains and bed linens, creamy walls, good lighting for reading, and more than ample seating.

Crisp linens and plush bedding at Lords of the Manor

Add to this a writing desk with stationery, in-room wine and cheese that you can order, well-appointed bathroom, and soft-to-the-touch monogrammed bathrobes.  (Well, it is luxury, after all.)

Bert found time to write a postcard and sip some wine in our room at Lords of the Manor.

Comfort extended to other areas of this anything-but-stuffy manor house. With the option of dining near the fireplace in a well-appointed drawing room, we accepted the offer and felt duly pampered. Staff members, efficient but unobtrusive, prioritized comfort and privacy for guests at Lords of the Manor, even during the bustle of winter holidays.

The Food

Choices abound for breakfast at Lords of the Manor, but we chose the buffet over a made-for-us bounty.  Who could resist in-house granola, preserves, fruits and breads with a presentation that invites you to try at least some of the chef-prepared offerings?

And although we tried one night to have Michelin Star Dining at Lords of the Manor (Click here to see a gallery of pictures), we were too late.  Word to the wise: Make reservations ahead of time.  Frequent travelers and nearby residents recognize quality, so they book in advance.  You may want to do the same.

The Extras

The staff at Lords of the Manor will tell you that there are no extras.  Everything is lovely, and everything is included in your stay.  And they’d be correct.  But by extras, we mean what we don’t normally see at just any bed-and-breakfast or hotel. Like live Christmas trees — numerous ones — in the entrance hallway, common areas, and dining rooms.

Extra special, extra colorful: Christmas at Lords of the Manor

And service beyond compare.  Even with our distinctly Southern accents, the staff understood what we asked for and found it — whether it was a light dinner by the fire or map of the area for early-morning exploration.  Fine service isn’t an extra at Lords of the Manor; it’s business as usual.  And we loved it!

Sitting room: Lords of the Manor

So, if you’re visiting the Cotswolds, consider Lords of the Manor.  Whether your stay in the winter involves cozying up by the drawing room fire or your visit in spring allows you to photograph perennials in the garden, you won’t be disappointed.  It’s a place for all seasons.  And one of the finest spots in the area for English hospitality.

Enjoying a special stay at Lords of the Manor

For more information:

Lords of the Manor Hotel and Restaurant, Upper Slaughter, Gloucestershire; www.lordsofthemanor.com

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/LordsOfTheManorHotel

Twitter: @CotswoldLords

Like this sturdy wooden door standing in stark contrast to pale gray stones surrounding it, and adorned by an arc of vines. Classy colors.  Stately architecture. Memorable statement.

 Or this nail-studded door with a pouf of winding, climbing now-hardened vines hovering over and spilling onto to those charming leaded windows.

Even plain doors are noteworthy in the Cotswolds.  With a simple lion’s head door knocker and metal (hand-forged?) letter slot, this Court Cottage door exudes elegance in simplicity.

Now this door deserves a double-take.  If it weren’t on a church, this sweet closure could almost be the opening for a Hobbit house, with that rounded top and romantic carvings.  And look twice at the details like a forged iron hinge at the bottom and teeny cut-outs at eye level.

I guess everyone has a favorite, even among a line-up of remarkable doors where each one seems more special than the last.  And here’s mine.   Perhaps I should call it what it really is — a gate rather than a door.  But it’s a doorway to something.  This lovely carved wooden structure — door? gate? — begged to be pushed open just so I could get a glimpse of what’s on the other side. And it was all I could do to hold back and just take pictures.

Be still my heart.  The Cotswolds have doors to envy!

For more of Norm’s Thursday’s Doors, click here.  And push open a whole new world of worthy entrances.

Although scenic views unfold at every turn, it’s mostly the houses I love.  Stone cottages with or without thatched roofs.  Creamy facades of stone or aged stucco.  Cottages resting on manicured lawns, round bushes snugged up to their foundations.  Comfortable homes fronted with aged-over-time wooden doors, windows edged by lace curtains, chimneys on either side, and vines meandering aimlessly upward and over.  Yes, it’s wanderlust — my long-standing desire to linger in England’s Cotswolds once again.

Do you love The Cotswolds, too?

Happy wandering — Rusha Sams

For more dreamy places to visit, check out:  Weekly Photo Challenge:  Wanderlust.

Looking into the Great Bath at England’s Roman Baths.

One of the main attractions, if not THE main attraction, in Bath, England is the 2,000-year-old site of the Roman Baths.  It’s here that you can roam ancient ruins, soak up the culture of Aquae Sulis (named for the goddess Sulis) and photograph one of the best preserved sites in England.

The 2,000-year-old Roman Baths, restored and open for touring in Bath, England.

The Roman Baths haven’t always been this accessible.  Falling into ruin after the 5th century, the site was reconstructed in the 1800s by John Wood, the Elder and John Wood, the Younger who also designed The Circus in Bath.  But if you meander along the pathways besides the Great Bath, you could be standing on the very stones where Romans once stood.

View from the Terrace of the Roman Baths

The main attraction, of course, is the water itself — hot, geothermal water that flows over and percolates through limestone aquifers — the same water that enticed Romans to gather and bathe together.  Today, the water is deemed unsafe for public bathing due, in part, to the fact that it flows through lead pipes. But if you long for a safe, lavish spa experience,  Thermae Bath Spa is a nearby alternative.

Tour guide shares information on the water of the Roman Baths

If, however, you’re wishing for the restorative effect of mineral water, you can treat your body to a swig of something safe from an urn in the Grand Pump Room near the entrance. (We were told that some people show up every day for a free drink from the fountain.)

Offering safe drinking water is this decorative urn located in the Grand Pump Room of the Roman Baths.

A walk around the terrace offers views of Bath Abbey and up-close encounters with Roman statues (suitable for today’s selfies, as it were).

Can you get Bath Abbey in the background?

Notably outstanding are curated exhibits you encounter while following the marked paths up and down, over and through the baths — like this one with over 12,000 Roman coins found at the baths (possibly cast into the water by guests) and now mounted for posterity.

Preserved and mounted Roman coins found at Roman Baths

Recreated on one wall of an underground alcove is a triangular section from the Bath Roman Temple. Columns, friezes, and a partial pediment surround the still intact Gorgon’s Head medallion.

Reconstructed pediment with Gorgon’s Head medallion

Be sure to take advantage of the audio tour detailing stops along the way in easy-to-understand detail.  As a pleasant surprise to us, we could choose the channel featuring the impressions (and humor) of  an author we love, Bill Bryson (Notes from a Small Island, Road to Little Dribbling), just by punching in the numbers designated on the signs throughout the exhibits.

Narrative on Hot Spring with optional discourse by Bill Bryson

Also making the Roman Baths come to life are the Romans themselves.  Well, not real Romans, of course.  But those who come to work there, dress in period garb, and demonstrate what Romans did in their spare time while talking, always in character, with tourists like us.

Dressed as a Roman, this lady tells visitors of life at the Roman Baths 2,000 years ago

The Roman Baths offer something for everyone — history buffs, lovers of art and archeology, and photographers.  Even children can have a great time talking with a Roman or reading some of the curse tablets posted on the wall — no doubt lambasting those who had stolen articles of clothing from bathers in the healing waters!  (For more on what to do with little ones in tow, check out “Visiting the Roman Baths with toddlers” from Tin Box Traveller.)

Visitors on the terrace of Roman Baths, Bath, England

And check out the Roman Baths website for how you can hold an event of your own or attend one of theirs right where Romans played 2,000 years ago!

Who knows?  You may be returning often — just to sip that mineral water.

Check out that hairdo on the bust of a Roman woman.

Thanks for traveling England with us — Bert and Rusha Sams

For more information:

The Roman Baths: https://www.romanbaths.co.uk

Twitter: @RomanBathsBath

Facebook: The Roman Baths

Bath Abbey at Christmas with market shops below

Bath, England, known by tourists for its (well, of course) Roman Baths, but offers more to whet the appetite and treat the eyes.  Nestled in the county of Somerset in southwest England, Bath is a town famous for its creamy stone buildings and the scenic Avon River that runs through it.  Although most people flock to see the often-touted (for good reason) Roman Baths, three other sites will make your trip to Bath even richer.

1.  Bath Abbey (The Abbey Church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul)

High vaulted ceilings in creamy white look even more airy thanks to 52 windows.

According to a pamphlet you can pick up in the narthex, Bath Abbey, an Anglican parish church, once served as a monastery in the 8th century. It’s endured destruction in the 1500s, restoration by Sir George Gilbert Scott in the 1600s, bombings in 1942, and continual restoration and improvement through today.

Architecturally notable is the ornate fan vaulting installed by Robert and William Vertue between 1864 and 1874.  Combined with 52 windows allowing a flood of natural light, the fan vaulting adds an open, airy feel to this cathedral built of natural Bath stone.

Superb fan vaulting in Bath Abbey

If you’re visiting in December, plan to be treated to one of the Bath Abbey concerts (get tickets early) and the pealing of the bells announcing the performances.  At the base of the church, shop the stalls of the Bath Christmas markets for goods such as fine wool scarves, pomander balls, and candles.

2. The Circus

The Circus, Bath, England (source: Google Images)

Originally known as The King’s Circus, this circular arrangement of Georgian townhouses now known simply as The Circus was begun in 1754 by John Wood the Elder.  An architect, Wood was inspired by the prehistoric stone circles seen in England and the form of the Roman Colosseum.  Alas, Wood the Elder died before the project began, but his son, John Wood the Younger completed it in 1758.

Georgian architecture of The Circus in Bath.

A closer look at the stonework reveals symbols such as acorns (tributes to the Druids?), serpents, and Masonic emblems.

Architectural detail below a second-story window at The Circus in Bath.

Our driver took us to the center grassy area (formerly a reservoir) beneath a gnarly tree to demonstrate the reverberating nature of sound bouncing off the circular formation of stone residences.  And, you, too, should try this: clap your hands and listen as acoustics take over and send that sound right back to you.

Fun thing to try: Clap your hands in the middle of The Circus to hear sound in the round!

Similar to The Circus and designed by John Wood the Younger, the Royal Crescent (celebrating its 250th anniversary in 2017) is a semi-circular row of 30 terrace houses representing the finest in Georgian architecture.  In front of this impressive location for films and TV series, is a “ha-ha,” a recessed area in front of the Crescent designed to be a barrier to livestock, but one that still allows an unobstructed view of the homes.  A stay in the Royal Crescent Hotel located in the midst of the row homes would be an impressive stay indeed!

View of The Royal Crescent with a ha-ha in foreground.

3.  Pulteney Bridge

Drive past Pulteney Bridge, park your car, and snap away.  One of only four bridges in the world lined with shops, Pulteney Bridge hovers over the Avon River offering a postcard-worthy site to see and send back home.

View of Pulteney Bridge above the Avon River in Bath, England.

And if you’re into shopping for quality products and souvenirs, stop in at Guildhall Market for local treats like flags, scarves, and teapots or grab a bite at Guildhall Delicatessen where scotch eggs and pork pies will fill you up with a genuine taste of England.

There’s plenty to see and do in Bath.  And we haven’t even seen the headliner: the Roman Baths. We’re saving that for our next post!

Rusha and Bert Sams

For more information:

Bath Abbey: http://www.bathabbey.org/

The Circus: https://visitbath.co.uk/things-to-do/the-circus-p56201

The Royal Crescent: https://visitbath.co.uk/things-to-do/the-royal-crescent-p56191

Pulteney Bridge: https://visitbath.co.uk/things-to-do/pulteney-bridge-p56151Pulteney Bridge: 

Wikipedia:  Bath Abbey; The Circus; The Royal Crescent; Pulteney Bridge

Just walking the short walk to the front door gave me chills. After all, I was at Shakespeare’s Birthplace in Stratford-upon-Avon!

Surely no self-respecting English teacher (myself included) would return home from a trip to England without visiting Stratford-upon-Avon.  After all, this birthplace and home of William Shakespeare appears in British lit books and “bardly” publications that we share with students and dream of seeing in person . . . someday.

Well, my someday came, and here my husband and I were staring squarely at the place of William Shakespeare’s birth in 1564, amazed that it wasn’t as humble a structure as we would have suspected.  In fact, this half-timbered house was the largest dwelling on Henley Street when John and Mary Shakespeare lived there and raised eight children, William being the third one born.

Shakespeare’s home on Henley Street

Touring the home today offers you a glimpse of what life would be like for John Shakespeare, Mayor of Stratford,  and his brood. Judging from what most people would consider a rather smallish home for 10, you might wonder how so many people could live comfortably there.  But live they did.  And in style.  Leaded glass windows and aged-over-time hardwood floors have endured a steady stream of visitors, eager to peek into rooms and imagine life in the 16th century.  And a table set as it would have been in Shakespeare’s time brings dinnertime to life.  Overall, Shakespeare’s Birthplace is an impressive home, even by today’s standards.

Boys’ bedroom, Shakespeare’s Birthplace

Table set for dinner as it would have been in the 16th century

Moving through the house and imagining what life was like “back in the day” was one thing, but what enhanced the experience were the performers dressed in period attire.  Like this affable soul who serenaded us inside the front door with lute accompaniment.

Entertaining visitors with his lute in Shakespeare’s Birthplace

And this patient, happy lady who led a hands-on demo for children in the art of making a pouch.

Demonstrating needle arts at Shakespeare’s Birthplace

Although December is not the best time for touring the gardens, there’s evidence of what active members of Shakespeare Birthplace Trust and area volunteers have done to restore and maintain the grounds as well as the home.

Climbing vines at the side door entrance to Shakespeare’s Birthplace

Bottom line on the whole experience?  It’s a tour worth taking — and not just for English teachers.  It’s history, architecture, lifestyle, joy, all rolled into one.  Headed to Stratford-upon-Avon?  Then, don’t miss Shakespeare’s Birthplace.

Even the back of this half-timbered house, Shakespeare’s Birthplace, is impressive.

For more information:

The Shakespeare Centre, Henley Street, Stratford-upon-Avon, Warwickshire.

https://www.shakespeare.org.uk/visit/shakespeares-birthplace/